12x12 Review: Great Lakes Eliot Ness

Beers included: Eliot Ness

Purchased: 15 March 2025

Purchase Price: $17.99 

Initial Impression: When I first started really getting into craft beer one of the things people would get excited about was when a brewery started distributing in their state. This was before there was a taproom on every street corner and almost all packaged craft beer was bought at a store. 

Then by the late 2010s as the growth in craft beer began to slow, a regional brewery entering a new state became a red flag. Dumping liquid in a new market could provide a sugar high for a brand struggling for growth. Two large out-of-state breweries I worked with sent beer to Massachusetts; both have since been sold or merged. 

In that context, it was interesting to me to see Great Lakes Brewing on store shelves late last year. I almost pulled the trigger on Great Lakes Christmas Ale when I saw it late last year. For March I picked up Eliot Ness Amber Lager. 

Founded in 1988, Great Lakes is a Midwest stalwart. Somehow I have only had one of their beers, Lake Erie Monster Double IPA, and none of their core beers. Hopefully I’ll get a chance to try their Dortmunder Gold at some point. 

When I saw a Great Lakes sample pack with a hazy IPA and pale lager, that didn’t interest me. It seems like every regional brewery is making hazy IPAs and pale lagers now. Craft beer was built on amber ales and lagers like Eliot Ness. Think Boston Lager and Brooklyn Lager. I was interested to see how Eliot Ness compared. 

I like how the bottom of the box has recommended glassware
and suggested food pairings. An easy open box is always a plus too

Package Date: None, but there was a best-by date of 05/25/2025 so still quite fresh. 

Aroma: Bready, toasty with hint of spicy hops

Appearance: Cooper, brilliant clarity. Thick foamy off white head with goof retention and lacing. Gorgeous beer. 

Flavor: Dry and toasty malt flavor. Light notes of chocolate that linger in finish. Hop bitterness is moderate and the beer does finish a touch resiny, which blends with the chocolate. 

Mouthful: Medium to medium light body and medium carbonation. Finish is clean with no dryness or sweetness lingering. 

Overall - Feels lighter-bodied, less caramelly, and more toasty than Samuel Adams Boston Lager, while Sam probably has more hop flavor. Flavor is definitely richer, and fermentation cleaner than Yuengling. Not as Pilsner-like as I remember Brooklyn Lager. 

I shouldn’t just compare this beer to other beers. On its own this beer feels like it is somewhere between a Vienna Lager and a Marzen in terms of bready richness of the malt flavor. Maybe because this was my first beer on a Friday night, but this can was super drinkable. This would be a fine “house beer”, although with its 6.1% ABV more than a couple on a weeknight might be a little much. 

The can art is 10/10. 

12x12 is a new series dedicated to reviewing 12-packs of 12 ounce cans or bottles. Inspired by my guide to garage beer, 12-packs are often the workhorse of the beer fridge. The beer you bring to a cookout or grab on the way to a party. This series honors craft flagships, seasonal classics, and imported examples of classic styles.